Day 32 - 23/4
The group woke to a clear, sunny sky and an incredible view. By 07:00, some were already out taking photographs!
The skiing began down the glacier pass, where they suddenly encountered a zone of enormous crevasses. Everyone was quick to rope in, and just as swiftly as they had entered the crevasse area—they were out of it.
They continued onto Lilliehöökbreen and then on to Satelittpasset. Here, the cold crept in from the north, and facemasks and down jackets were soon on. Alas, no two-hour lunch today... After a quick stop and equally quick eating, everyone was ready to push on.
The group completed four legs of skiing before lunch, and three more afterward, covering a total of 20 kilometers. Camp was pitched on Lurøybreen, just four kilometers from Magdalenefjorden. Tomorrow, the group will ski down Miethebreen to the coast, where the boat will pick them up.
It’s a strange feeling that the expedition will end tomorrow—every day has felt so far from the finish, and now, suddenly, it’s here. Tonight, everyone is making the most of their last night.
Day 31 - 22/4
After a good and restful night’s sleep on Monacobreen, the group was once again ready to go at 09:00. The plan for the day was to ski 17 kilometers with 400 meters of elevation gain to reach Teltpasset. Everyone agreed that a place with the word “telt” (tent) in it had to be the perfect spot to pitch camp.
The group completed four legs of skiing, with the snow gradually thinning—making it easier and easier to glide across. At one point, it even turned into blue ice. Today featured the trip’s longest lunch break. The reason? A pizza delivery!
Signe Maria had coordinated with friends in Longyearbyen to get pizza delivered to the boat scheduled to pick them up in Magdalenefjorden. So there they were—roped up in the middle of nowhere—with Kristoffer and Sebastian on one side of a snow bridge, and Signe Maria, Ali, and Trond on the other, eagerly debating pizza toppings before placing their order.
After lunch, the group skied two more legs—and voilà, they arrived at Teltpasset. A strong wind greeted them, but after so many days on expedition, camp was set up in the blink of an eye. Now, everyone is tucked into their sleeping bags, and the cheerful hum of the stoves is filling the camp.
Day 30 - 21/4
When the group pitched camp yesterday, a thick fog lay over Monacobreen. This morning, wearily, everyone peeked out of their tents, hoping the fog had lifted for their traverse of the treacherous glacier, riddled with large crevasses. And it had! The sun was out, and conditions were perfect for navigating the glacier.
On the third leg of the day, the group had a major surprise—polar bear tracks! The bear had come from the west and gone eastward, directly through a field of crevasses at 700 meters above sea level. They estimated the encounter to have occurred perhaps 4–5 days ago. Everyone was thrilled to see the tracks and left pondering the mysterious ways of the polar bear.
Now, the group is in an area of outstanding and spectacular beauty. Kristoffer even says it's the very best Spitsbergen has to offer. Probably no human has been here since May or June last year, which adds an extra layer of excitement to it all.
In total, the group covered 24 kilometers and 8.5 legs of skiing today, during six of which they were roped in. As they approach Magdalenefjorden, they not only find themselves well-stocked with coffee, but also with dinners. So this evening, everyone devoured two rations of field meals, resulting in food comas and a deep, well-earned sleep for all.
Day 29 - 20/4
Finally, the group woke to the weather that had actually been forecasted! A blazing sun filled the cloudless sky, and everyone was clipped in and ready to go by 09:00.
They headed straight north, into an area seemingly untouched by humans—no other expeditions, no snowmobiles. Just our little group and the magnificent, sharp mountains surrounding the glaciers they traverse.
Today's lunch more than made up for yesterday's freezing 20-minute stop. The sun kept everyone warm, even at 900 meters above sea level. And, to Kristoffer and Signe Maria's joyous surprise, it turned out Sebastian had plenty of coffee left over, in fact more than what he needs for the rest of the trip—so the two java-lovers introduced a new routine: coffee with lunch for the rest of the trip.
All in all, the group skied eight legs today, covering 21 kilometers, and they're excited for another day in this fantastic area tomorrow.
Day 28 - 19/4
The rumors of better weather today weren’t true.. The group woke to a complete whiteout and frost covering everything! By their second leg of the day, it cleared up, leaving everyone with a fleeting hope for sunshine—only for the world to turn white again soon after.
Their route led mostly westward all day; all tough a compass was barely needed through the fog, as a piercing cold wind directly from the west decisively lead the way.
Today brought the shortest lunch of the trip—meals froze to the bowls before they were consumed, and some chose to keep their big down jackets on for the legs following the break.
Nonetheless, there were no complaints. The group completed their usual eight legs and clocked 19 kilometers. Now, the sounds of stoves in every tent are filling the camp. Time to warm up and have dinner before crawling into their toasty sleeping bags.
Day 27 - 18/4
Today, while packing down camp, Sebastian announced that he now fully understands why some expeditioners go on to publish cookbooks. Because there has never been so much thinking about food as now.. This accidentally triggered a Pavlovian response in the group, leaving everyone daydreaming—and drooling—about the meals awaiting them back in civilization.
The first two legs of skiing were long and tough, with a climb and heavy snow to plow through. They took turns leading the way in 25-minute intervals. By the end of the second leg, they had reached the top of Viftepasset. From there, a slow ascent whiteout conditions commenced.
Well— for everyone except Trond. In an unfortunate series of events, he managed to disconnect his pulka, which promptly decided to part ways with the group. Trond gave chase but missed it after a series of dramatic somersaults. Luckily, both Trond and the pulka were unharmed and reunited further down the hill.
The group continued onto Orsabreen, where they stopped for lunch. Four more legs of skiing followed, though there isn’t much to report—visibility was so poor the group may as well have been skiing in a bag of flour. The compass needle was their only guide forward, but forward they went!
Camp was pitched near Holtedahlfonna. The group completed eight legs of skiing, covering 16 kilometers, and are very happy with that. The forecast suggests better weather tomorrow—hopefully a day with clearer skies awaits!
Day 26 - 17/4
The night passed without any visit from the King of Dickson. There was, however, some early morning drama—though very human in nature. Kristoffer, more focused on consuming his first cup of coffee than anything else, accidentally set fire to his ski skins while trying to dry them over the stove. As it turns out, mohair skins burn surprisingly well.
The day’s skiing journey began without any skins on Kristoffer’s part, and the group headed into the valley and across the moraine leading up to Battyebreen. At times, the moraine felt like a labyrinth, offering a fun challenge in choosing the best route through it. Meltwater channels also had to be crossed. Skis were strapped to the pulkas, and without hesitation, everyone waded into the icy slush, crossing on foot.
Eventually, the group found a passage leading onto the glacier, where they paused for the longest lunch break of the trip so far. Now they are on the glacier system, they will follow it all the way to Magdalenefjorden.
After lunch came three more legs of skiing—not many, but they were tough. The team climbed 400 meters of elevation, all whilst plowing through 10 centimeters of fresh snow. Still, with good weather and high spirits, they managed 16 kilometers before pitching camp for the night.
Day 25 - 16/4
The group were on their skis in lovely weather—the wind quiet, the sun shining with a warming intensity. They made their way down Hugindalen to Dicksonfjorden, accompanied by a buzzing array of wildlife. They counted twenty ptarmigans and greeted several curious reindeer along the way.
Well down the valley, they turned north, heading up Dicksonfjorden via Kapp Nathorst. The plan was five legs of skiing before lunch, then four more before camp. They had just begun the fifth leg when they approached Kapp Nathorst. The view was gorgeous. Plenty of ringed seals lay sprawled on the ice beside their breathing holes, and large polar bear tracks were scattered around the area.
Prompted by the sight, Kristoffer took a closer look. Trond handed over his good binoculars, and there on the ice—about a kilometer away—was a furry yellow dot. The dot sat directly in their planned route. To avoid becoming lunch themselves, the group quickly decided to take theirs where they were, and rerouted.
They enjoyed an extra long lunch with a view, drying sleeping bags in the sun. Afterwards, they wandered the area inspecting the polar bear tracks—gigantic, easily large enough to fit a size 46 ski boot! All agreed: this must be the King of Dicksonfjorden. Out here alone on the ice, with plenty of seal, no tourists—just one odd group of skiers passing through.
Thanks to the King's presence, the modest plan of four post-lunch legs turned into ten, totalling 32 kilometres. Nothing like a 500-kilo polar bear behind you to shave time off your route.
Picture from our archive, according to the group their polar bear tracks would be thrice the size!
Day 24 - 15/4
Last night was probably the best polar bear watch of the trip.
Kristoffer and his father had thought ahead already in March, leaving four sacks of birchwood in Ebbahytta for just this occasion. What a lovely surprise for the group—to be able to light a proper fire in the cabin, and to have a warm place to retreat to during the long night polar bear watch shifts. They even managed to hang up a few things to dry overnight.
The hut isn’t big enough to fit everyone, so they stuck with sleeping in their tents.
By 09:00 they were on skis, heading over Hørbybreen, Hoelbreen, and Stensiobreen. There were some steep climbs, but after six legs of skiing, the hills were behind them—and the view they were rewarded with was nothing short of extraordinary.
They pushed on with a cold wind at their backs, while thick fog clung stubbornly to the razor sharp mountain tops ahead. No matter how strong the wind blew, the fog refused to move. Why or how the fog didn’t lift became the day’s shared mystery, offering a bit of entertainment. Oh, the things one do outside of phone coverage!
In total, they covered 17 kilometers and gained 670 meters in elevation. Tomorrow brings a well-earned descent!
Day 23 - 14/4
Last night, the group pitched camp in strong north-easterly winds and were warned by their expedition contact (me!) that they could expect worsening weather in the early hours and around noon.Savvy as they are, they made a plan: stay snug in their sleeping bags and snooze through the stormy morning until noon.
So, the surprise—and perhaps a touch of disappointment—was real when they woke up to practically no wind at all. Ah well, nothing to do but strap on the skis.
They set off toward Adolfbukta, treated to a stunning view of Nordenskiöldbreen. While crossing Adolfbukta, they stayed alert for any four-legged visitors, but none made an appearance. Lunch was enjoyed out on the ice, before they continued on towards Petuniabukta.
They took the scenic route, stopping by the Raudmosepynten lighthouse to soak in the spectacular view of the fjord. Altogether, they skied about 20 kilometers before pitching camp next to an old cabin named Ebbahytta.
Pictured is the group on Raudmosepynten.
Day 22 - 13/4
After a long and restful night on top of Murdochbreen, the group strapped on their skis and descended 500 meters in one sweeping glide onto the next glacier.
They cruised through Gipsdalen in excellent conditions, fully soaking in the joy of smooth skiing. A brisk wind made lunch a slightly less pleasant affair, but the chill would not last long as they would soon climb Florabreen.
After lunch, they approached their next ascent—and were met with a sight that, according to Kristoffer, left the group horror-struck. How could a glacier be this steep? And this long? Spirits wavered only for a moment, though, before everyone lowered their heads and pushed forward, tackling the hill with quiet determination.
Camp was made at the top of the glacier, where they enjoyed a well-earned view over Nordenskiöldbreen and the majestic mountains surrounding it. Twenty-two kilometers covered today—500 of those practically straight uphill—a tired but deeply satisfied group.
Day 21 - 12/4
The group was on their skis by 09.00, and a few legs later they reached Fredheim.
Fredheim is an area seeped in trapper history, with multiple huts all dating to different eras of this activity. The oldest hut (now destroyed by costal erosion) is Pomor, dating back to 1890. Since 1500 the Pomor hunters were sent out from convents around the White Sea, to hunt for sea mammals. Later came the Norwegian trappers, and eventually this specific area became the main base of infamous trapper Hilmar Nøis, and from time to time his family members.
Many heroic stories of Hilmar and his excellent abilities to thrive in the arctic exist. Yet the story of his wife Ellen Dorthe whom in 1922, in "gammelhytta" ("the old hut") in Fredheim, gave birth to their first son utterly alone in the polar night, often remains untold. In 1924 “Villa Fredheim” was erected, and still stands as perhaps one of the more well-known remnants of the Norwegian trapper era on Svalbard, it is large and well equipped in contrast to most trappers’ huts around the island. Svalbard is rich in history, which is often harsh, and historical sites like these remains as a true testament of resilience that is hard to match.
Fredheim is a popular spot for locals too, and some friends of Signe Maria met the group offering up some nice treats. Our group did however, after nearly three weeks of social isolation, find it a all a bit too crowded and took off to cross Tempelfjorden. They did 18 kilometers before taking a lunch break. After this they continued to ski up Murdochbreen, a 500 meters ascent. They all helped each other with the pulkas and in the steepest parts they even had to take off their skis to gain enough traction to get up. By 19.20 they pitched camp, and everyone got a surprise - home made cookies! Everyone is tired and ready for the sleeping bags, after a long but great day!
Photo of Fredheim and Tempelfjorden from sysselmesteren.
Day 20 - 11/4
Finally the weather finally finished asserting its authority over the group. and offered up good snow conditions. Making the group able to ski 24 kilometers! A good day today!
Day 19 - 10/4
When you're out on a long trip or expedition like this, not all days can be rosy. This was one of those days.
The cold dry snow made the skiing incredibly hard, requiring effort in each step. The group skied towards Eskerdalen, in deep riverbeds with many small side streams, this isn't the best terrain for a day with sandpaper like snow, to say the least. Everyone put in a solid effort, and are now resting up in camp. 12 kilometers in total, and hoping for better conditions tomorrow!